Beta hydroxy acid(BHA)
Beta Hydroxy Acid
BHA ingredients may be listed as -
• salicylic acid (or related substances, such as salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract)
• beta hydroxybutanoic acid
• tropic acid
• trethocanic acid
Currently, the BHA most commonly used in cosmetics is salicylic acid
1. SALICYLIC ACID
salicylic acid is both highly keratolytic and comedolytic, which means it not only dissolves dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, but it’s also able to get down into the pore, dissolve the oil and break apart the debris inside that commonly leads to acne.
Who will benefit from it:
Unlike glycolic acid, salicylic acid is oil-soluble and can penetrate, polish and clear inside the pore. When used regularly, salicylic acid not only unclogs pores and helps clear acne, but it also prevents new acne and blackheads from forming. Additionally, it can correct dark spots without irritating your skin because it’s derived from willow bark, which has some topical anti-inflammatory benefits. “While some AHAs and other acids can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in patients with darker skin types, you won’t see that with salicylic acid.
How to Use Hydroxy Acids?
While using hydroxy acids is common and generally safe for your skin, knowing when, how and in what amount can make your product much more effective and less likely to cause irritation. Here are the 5 commandments when using hydroxy acids for the first time.
1. Start Slow. In general, when using acids, always start conservatively with a lower concentration and then work up to see what your skin can tolerate.
2. Do a Patch Test. Apply a small amount on the arm and then on the forehead (where the facial skin is the thickest) to see how your skin will respond.
2. Use a Daily Sunscreen. Studies show that AHAs leave the skin sensitive to UV radiation while using the products and for weeks after discontinuing use.
How are AHAs and BHAs different?
AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid. BHA stands for beta hydroxy acid.
AHAs are water-soluble acids made from sugary fruits. They help peel away the surface of your skin so that new, more evenly pigmented skin cells may generate and take their place. After use, you’ll likely notice that your skin is smoother to the touch.
On the other hand, BHAs are oil-soluble. Unlike AHAs, BHAs can get deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum.
If you’re primarily looking for dry skin relief or anti-aging benefits, try an AHA. If you want to tackle acne.
AHAs and BHAs share similar benefits. You can obtain some level of exfoliation from each one.
However, each ingredient can be used to achieve different skin care goals. If you’re looking for an all-inclusive anti-aging treatment, then an AHA may be the best fit. A BHA may better suited if you want to calm down inflammation and get rid of acne.
The main difference between alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid-soluble, meaning it will dissolve in oil. This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore, which contains oily sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that build up inside the pore. Due to this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better used for oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads.Alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.
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